Damask fabric is a type of fabric similar to jacquard, so the design is woven into the fabric rather than printed on it. Let’s talk more about this beautiful fabric.
What is damask fabric?
Damask is a double-sided fabric that is similar to jacquard fabric; That is, its designs are not printed on the fabric, but woven with the fabric itself. To create a damask fabric design, they use a combination of two different weaving techniques. In this way, they create the design with satin texture and use another technique for its background, which can be simple texture, twill texture or satin texture. Damask fabric is woven using only one warp thread and one weft thread, and its patterns can be multi-colored or single-colored. This fabric can be made from natural fibers such as silk, linen, cotton and wool or synthetic fibers such as artificial silk.
History of damask fabric
Damascus is derived from the Arabic word Damascus, the capital of Syria. In the 12th century, Damascus was a major trading center along the Silk Road. European traders saw damask cloth for the first time in Damascus. However, the technique of damask fabric goes back long before that time.
The method of weaving this fabric was developed in China around 300 BC, but it was not until the early Middle Ages that it became popular as a weaving technique. In the Middle Ages, damask was one of the five main weaving techniques in the Byzantine Empire and the Middle East. Most damask fabrics were hand-woven and made of silk. Due to the use of silk worms in damask, the silk type of this fabric was considered a luxury item and was reserved for the nobility.
Some traditions say that damask was first introduced to Europe in the 14th century and this word was first used in France. Early European damasks were woven on Italian looms capable of creating patterns that a standard loom could not. Today, modern damask is produced using computerized jacquard looms.
How to prepare and weave damask fabric
Traditionally, damask fabric has been very difficult to weave; Because its weaving was done with an ordinary loom and it could take weeks. The invention of the jacquard loom made things easy, and now that these mechanical looms can be programmed by computer, the damask weaving process has become much simpler.
Each set of warp and weft threads is called filling. A piece of damask fabric may consist of one or more fillers. Its background uses satin weave, and each warp thread may pass through more than 9 fillings.
In a computerized jacquard loom, modern damask weaving follows the same basic principles of traditional fabric making, however, today robots do the work instead of humans. The jacquard loom may have put thousands of weavers out of work, but it made it possible to access beautiful damask fabrics that, in days gone by, only the aristocracy could afford.
Types of damask fabric
There are different types of damask fabric, which are classified according to the fibers used in it:
1. silk damask; Smooth and luxurious
Traditionalists call silk damask “true damask” because for centuries, silk was the only material used to make this iconic patterned fabric. Silk damask is the softest and highest quality type of this fabric and naturally the most expensive.
2. synthetic damask; Affordable fabric
People who are fabric experts do not accept artificial damask; But if we want to use damask, which is a little more affordable, the synthetic type is available. In general, synthetic damask is made from synthetic fibers such as polyester.
3. cotton damask; Soft and light
Middle Eastern weavers tried hard to produce damask with cotton. They did, but the pattern was never able to compete with silk damask.
4. woolen damask; heavy and hot
Just like cotton damask, wool damask was produced long after silk damask and attracted the attention of the fashion community.
5. damask twill; Fabric with twill design
Twill damask can be made with any of the fibers we talked about. In fact, twill damask is a type of damask with a difference in its texture pattern, not in the raw material from which it is made.
The main features of damask fabric
Damask is a strong fabric with a strong and resistant texture and has many features, some of which we mention:
Damask fabric is defined by its design
Damask is a patterned fabric, and in fact, its patterning is its main feature. It does not have a specific pattern, but most of its designs are rooted in the Middle East and Byzantine culture and are created by repeating flower designs or abstract geometric designs.
It is thick and heavy
The texture pattern of damask fabric is a very dense texture that consists of several layers of thread. For this reason, damask is considered a thick and heavy fabric. Of course, depending on the fibers used in it, it can have different weights. For example, wool damask is much heavier than polyester damask, and polyester damask is thicker than regular polyester fabric.
It is very durable and strong
The type of dense damask texture makes it extremely strong and durable. For this reason, this fabric is perfect for daily home wear, chair covers and sofas.
Both can be used on it
Damask fabric is double sided and can be used on both sides. Its pattern is the same on both sides, but they have different colors.
It is shiny like satin
Damask is made with satin texture. This texture technique gives it shine and makes the surface look like satin.
Also, damask patterns are created using different texture techniques for background and design. Different textures reflect light in different ways. Because of this, its pattern will stand out in the background. Therefore, this fabric may look different colors in different lights.
It is resistant to water
The stiff texture of the damask fabric causes the liquid to form a droplet on the surface and stay on it until it is absorbed by the fabric. For this reason, damask fabric is perfect for furniture, decoration and table cloth.
It is easy to sew
The tight texture of damask makes it easy to sew. However, depending on its fibers, some types of damask fabric are more difficult to sew.
Various colors of damask
Damask actually refers to a texture technique, not a color. So it can be in all colors or mixed colors. In traditional damask, relying on different weaving techniques, they used one color to distinguish the flower pattern from the background; But with the passage of time, colorful damask fabrics were also produced.
Applications of damask fabric in fashion and decoration
Damask is a fabric that can be used in many ways. Its diverse applications in clothing and home decoration make us face a versatile fabric. Let’s see some of its uses together:
Tablecloth, napkin, tablecloth
Damask fabric can be used as a tablecloth, tablecloth and napkin. This fabric is both decorative, durable and resistant and can be used for everyday use.
Men’s and women’s clothing
Damask fabric is very stiff and heavy, so it is not suitable for making everyday clothes. Therefore, it is mostly used to produce all kinds of jackets, evening dresses and formal dresses. This fabric is thick and its strength creates a stylish and structured silhouette.
Today, softer and more delicate damask fabrics are produced using synthetic fibers, which can be used to sew clothes that are suitable for everyday wear. However, not everyone can afford to wear such clothes at home.
Accessories, scarf, handbag
Damask fabric is widely used in scarves, jackets, ties, bow ties and formal handbags. Its beautiful and dense pattern creates a statement and attractive look for these accessories. Silk damask, which has softer fibers, is usually used for scarves and any accessories that come in contact with the skin.
Today, some damask fabrics are also used in making luggage. The best type for luggage is damask made from synthetic fibers, as it is stronger and more durable and may also be waterproof.
Home decoration and furniture
Damask fabric can be suitable for home decoration due to its attractive patterns. You can make furniture, curtains and other fabric home furnishings with this fabric and enjoy its beautiful appearance and be sure of its durability. They even make light carpets from damask.
Wallpaper similar to damask design
Real damask fabric can be used as wallpaper, but it is very expensive and it would be very laborious to attach it to the wall. For this reason, they only use the popular damask design and pattern in the wallpapers, which is easy to work with, washable, and affordable. The damask design in the wall paper makes the house look monotonous.
Other items made from damask design
Damask patterns are so beautiful that some accessory manufacturers use its design (rather than its expensive fabric) for eyeglass cases, laptop bags, phone cases, and tons of other plastic accessories.
Pros and cons of damask fabric
Like any other fabric, damask fabric can have advantages and disadvantages. Here are some of them:
Advantages of damask fabric
1. It is widely used: This fabric has many different designs. Its nature is durable and therefore it can have various uses.
2. It is double: The doubleness of this fabric is one of its strengths. With this feature, you can sew clothes with beautiful designs and use the back of the fabric for cuffs, lapels and pockets.
3. It is resistant to: Damask is a resistant fabric. Of course, it depends on the fiber from which it is made.
4. It is beautiful and unique: Damask has a beautiful and unique appearance. Therefore, it gives a special elegance to the style or decoration of your home.
5. It is hydrophobic: The stiff texture of damask prevents water from penetrating and sliding over it. However, depending on the fiber from which it is made, this feature may be different.
6. It is easy to work with: Many damask fabrics are easy to work with because they resist wear and tear. They tend to keep their shape well; However, it still depends on their fibers.
Disadvantages of damask fabric
1. Tissue stiffness: While the tight texture of damask can be great for furniture or accessories or outdoor wear, it is usually not comfortable for home wear and is not a good choice for everyday wear. Of course, its degree of stiffness is different according to the fibers used in it.
2. Elongation of threads: Since damask designs are woven, threads may catch and stretch. This problem affects the beautiful appearance of damask, especially if it is in home decoration.
3. Its cotton type is wrinkled: Like all cotton fabrics, the linen type of damask wrinkle easily. Therefore, it must be ironed constantly.
4. Its stain is not easily removed: Damask fabric has multiple layers of texture, and that’s why when it gets stained, the stain settles in the deeper layers and is very difficult to remove.
Damask fabric care and washing instructions
Damask care instructions and washing methods depend entirely on the type of fiber it is made of. Silk damask should always be dry cleaned; But the cotton, linen and synthetic type can be washed by hand or put in the washing machine on a gentle cycle.
- Use cold water and mild detergent to wash the mask.
- If you’re using a washing machine, place the fabric in a mesh laundry bag to prevent it from fraying.
- Check the care label before washing and ironing.
- Never use bleach to wash damask. It damages its fibers.
- Instead of washing by hand or in the washing machine, put structured clothes such as blazers in the dry cleaner so that the structure is not damaged.
- To iron the damask, be sure to put a cloth on it; Because the fabric threads may stick to the iron or get stuck on its edge and the fabric becomes threadbare.
- If the damask fabric gets stained, clean it quickly. Otherwise, the stain sinks into the threads and is difficult to remove. The best thing to remove is a hydrogen peroxide based stain.
- Do not press the damask when washing it.
- To dry, hang it slightly juicy so that it does not wrinkle.
The difference between damask fabric and brocade
Both damask and brocade are patterned fabrics that are woven with jacquard looms. However, they have some differences. For example, consider the following:
- Damask designs are flatter, but brocade designs are prominent.
- Brocade is not double, but damask is woven in such a way that it can be used on both sides.
- Brocade patterns are usually multicolored, while damask can be monochromatic or bicolor. It is rarely colorful.
- Damask patterns usually have a sheen because they are woven using a satin technique, while brocade often uses metallic threads to create a sheen.
How to sew damask fabric
Since damask is a stiff fabric, it seems easy to sew; But the fact is that depending on its fibers, it may sometimes be more difficult to sew some of its types. For example, cotton and linen fibers hold their shape well and you can easily iron them after sewing the seams. However, for silk damask, polyester or rayon, you should probably use a layer to maintain the shape of the fabric during cutting and sewing.
Most types of fabrics are not damask. So they are easy to sew. However, some of its fibers may be elastic. If you are working with its type drawing, pay attention to the following points to sew it better:
- Pick the right needle: A thinner needle is better for stretchy fabrics.
- Polyester thread: This thread is better sewn on damask and does not cause stretching.
- Finer stitches are better: It is better to use finer stitches for quilting.
Another important thing to consider about damask sewing is the health of the needle. Try the needle that is healthy and not rough anywhere; Otherwise, it will pull the fabric.
Innovations used in damask fabric
Currently, damask is produced in large quantities and at a low cost, which has made it lose its royal splendor and charm of the past. Thanks to the production of petrochemical fibers in the 20th century, damask fabrics are not only out of reach, but also quite affordable. The computerized jacquard knitting machine also has a great effect in making this fabric cheaper; Because it has automated its production process.
Where is damask fabric produced?
Depending on the type of damask fabric, we have several major manufacturers:
The largest producer of silk damask: India is the largest producer of silk in the world. China also exports a lot of silk, but India, with its ancient mulberry plantations and ancestral silkworm breeds, still outranks China.
The largest producer of wool damask: Australia is the largest producer of wool in the world, with a huge number of sheep that even outnumbers the country’s human population. Currently, the Australian market is the source of woolen damasks.
The largest producer of cotton damask: India is currently the largest producer of cotton in the world. It is likely that India will remain in this top position as its economy develops.
The largest synthetic damask producer: China is the world’s largest petrochemical producer, so it makes sense that the country is also the world’s center for synthetic textile fiber production.
How does damask fabric affect the environment?
Since damask is a fabric pattern and not a fiber, its only direct impact on the environment occurs during the final weaving process. However, damask fabric goes through different stages until it becomes the final product. At each of these stages, the manufacturers’ choices determine how the fabric will affect the environment.
Environmental effects of natural fibers
Natural fibers generally have the least negative impact on the environment. Among the three natural fibers for making damask, cotton has the most negative effect. As a crop, growing cotton often involves pesticides, fertilizers, and other chemicals used by cotton growers, and these chemicals poison the edible vegetation, animal and human communities.
Silk and wool have virtually no negative environmental impact. However, many producers keep sheep and other wool-producing animals in poor conditions, and silk is produced from silkworms, although only silkworm rights defenders are concerned about this thousands-year-old process. Of course, there are many producers who treat their animals well and keep them in clean and ideal places.
Environmental effects of synthetic fibers
There is no way to completely eliminate the damage caused by the production of synthetic fibers to the environment, and it is only possible to reduce these effects. When the petrochemical industry first stepped in to produce fibers, no one knew how bad things were going to get. However, a mountain of plastic in the oceans continues to cause climate change and environmental pollution and has become a kind of crisis.
The effect of production processes
After the right thread for damask production is obtained, the use of toxic dyes, chemicals for finishing and anything used to make the fabric resistant can contaminate the soil, waterways and lungs of the people who work in that sector.
What is the price of damask fabric?
The price of damask fabric depends on the following:
Type of fibers used: Silk damask is more expensive than cotton and, in turn, more expensive than polyester. It is also logical; Because natural and organic fabrics are usually more expensive. In any case, stylish and beautiful clothes with minimal impact on the environment are worth it.
Number of fillers: Monochrome damask has fewer fillers than colored damask and is therefore cheaper.
Overall texture quality: In general, hand-woven damasks are far superior to machine-woven ones. Due to the high quality and value of handwork, traditional damask is more expensive and the more artistic the weaver, the more it will cost you.
final word
Damask fabric has been present in the textile industry for centuries and is considered one of the most expensive fabrics. In this article, we talked about this fabric and its structure and preparation method. The texture of this fabric is similar to jacquard and is very beautiful and durable. Today, this fabric is less used in clothes and is mostly used for decoration and furniture.
What do you think about damask fabric? Do you prefer to use this fabric in clothes or decoration? Please share your views with us.
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