Milan fashion week, autumn and winter 2024

Calcaterra brand

Name of the author: Bahar Ehteshami

It can be said that the Collectra brand is one of the brands without borders in fashion weeks. In all the works of Daniel Collectra, the creative director of this brand, we see his work signature, which includes minimal designs without many side decorations, creating new and voluminous silhouettes, high-quality stitching, and generally beautiful designs while maintaining simplicity and elegance.

In the fall and winter collection of 2024/25 of this brand, we see 28 looks with various designs and fabrics. In general, the designs of this collection include large neckerchiefs, coats, overcoats, oversize pants and shirts with flat, standing and long collars.

Since last year, we have seen the presence of prominent and large flowers in a number of brand collections and celebrity looks for men and women. In the autumn and winter collection of Kolektra, among the 4 looks, prominent flowers can be seen on jackets, tops, shoes and skirts.

If we want to go to the colors of this collection, the color palette of this collection includes burnt red and wine red, chocolate, gray, cream, white and black, and the use of these neutral colors can be seen in a large number of looks.

On the other hand, in this collection, we see a variety of fabrics from wool and silk to alpaca and two looks with long and short fur coats. Also, compared to last year's autumn collection, Kolektra has not used patterned fabrics in this collection. In general, from the design of the catwalk of the models to the music and looks of this collection, everything is prepared for a minimal and unique show.

brand Diesel

Author's name: Tanya Hatfi Saeed

The Fall-Winter 2024 collection of the Diesel brand attracted all the attention a few days before the fashion show; Because this brand opened the doors of its atelier to everyone for the first time and shared all the stages of fashion show preparation in the last 72 hours live with the audience.

This action of the Diesel brand was recognized as a bold and unusual move in the fashion world; Because until now, no brand had shown its fashion show preparation completely, honestly and of course live. On the other hand, some looks and items of this collection were seen in line with this live broadcast before the show, which was considered a kind of breaking tradition.

Glenn Martens, creative director of the Diesel brand, said: “Diesel is the embodiment of democracy in fashion, so it is natural that we unveil something that is usually kept hidden.”

But this was only part of Diesel's innovations for this fashion show. This collection was unveiled with the background of the faces of 1000 fans of this brand who were watching the show online. In fact, during this event, some of those who were watching the fashion show were themselves being watched by the audience and other viewers.

It seems that the purpose of the Diesel brand was to blur the boundaries, get closer to its audience and establish a sincere relationship with them.

But more interesting than that, it was that in 3 out of 64 looks of this collection, there were items with the printed design of the faces of the same audience, which proved that Diesel fans were an important part of this collection.

In this collection, Glenn Martens, in addition to fabric making techniques on denim such as acid washing, salting and burning, used other genders such as leather, fur and wool fabric, as well as patterns such as leopard and floral. In some of the early looks, the collar of the dresses was made of fabric in a way that conveyed the feeling of melting. In some of the looks, several patterns and various items were styled together with the layering technique, which, in addition to preserving the brand's identity, displayed its creativity. Finally, it should be said that the variety in fabric making, gender, pattern and color palette in this collection, as well as the combination of these things with each other, had created diverse and different looks and as a result an admirable collection.

Prada brand

Author: Fateme Daneshvar

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, as the parents of the fashion industry, once again presented an extraordinary collection of combinations of charm and innovation at Milan Fashion Week.

The stage design of this fashion show made the space look like a dream from the very first moment. The models walked on a garden full of plants and stones, which was covered with a glass screen, creating a completely romantic autumn scene for the audience. According to these two designers, this show is a combination of telling history and the contemporary world that is hidden behind our memories.

This collection cannot be contained in a specific time because it defines the future and the past side by side. This season, Prada was also inspired by the characteristics of aviators' and sailors' clothing, which was evident in items including uniform-like jackets, trousers and aviator hats.

Last year, bow ties were considered among the attractive trends in cyber space among young girls, and in this collection, Prada chose a dress decorated with bow ties for her first look, which, along with embroidered silk shirts, conveys a sense of femininity and girlish tenderness. They were adding collections.

Forget the previous methods you had in mind for carrying your bags! Because this brand has presented a new innovation for carrying handbags in this collection. Miocha and Raf hung the bags using belts that wrapped around the models' hands. Raincoats, midi skirts and partial use of fur in the clothes made a romantic and emotional collection for the viewers.

Prada's Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a masterpiece of the brand's ability to combine love with modernity, showcasing a fusion of dreamy 1950s style and modern elements. Ultimately, this show shows that modern beauty and the romanticism of the past can intersect to deliver a beautiful and compelling story to fashion audiences around the world.

brand Antonio Marras

Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl

Antonio Maras made a controversial start to Milan Fashion Week with a unique performance. With his correct understanding of drama and drama and elements such as light and color, he took the audience on a journey through the time he portrayed love. The designer's Fall-Winter 2024 collection was inspired by the brave princess of Sardinia in the Middle Ages, Eleanor Arboria, and tried to capture the fierce passion and courage of this princess. In this runway, in an old fashioned corridor, he narrates the story of the princess with the companions he calls, and shows off his Italian creativity.

The elements used in this collection show Eleanor's strong interest in falconry, which was a prestigious occupation in her royal family. Models decorated with original motifs, coats decorated with glittering studs, the use of feathers and metal breeches reminiscent of battle armor reflect the grandeur of medieval combat clothing. In this collection, female figures with shapes such as bows and hooks, along with magnificent cloaks, highlight the power of women in the eyes of Maras. Although the choice of such an inspiration is limiting, these references did not limit or hold back Antonio Maras. As before, with knowledge and intelligence, he has included suits, evening dresses and sweatshirts, skirts and tops in his collection and has shown his strength in developing clothes like superheroes.

Maras' new collection is a masterful interpretation of the fashion show, incorporating a Hollywood touch into billowing and faded nightgowns, tailored waist suits, long coats, pencil skirts and slinky dresses. In the details of this collection, Shanti lace, Valenciennes, macrame, inlay, embroidery, beads, pleated lace, striped, striped and embroidered patterns and all the love and passion of a creative designer can be felt in each of the dresses. Antonio Maras, like the writing that can be seen on one of his warm-up shirts: maicuntentu; A design that is not satisfied with less and knows how to be ambitious. He has proven that there is no shortage of ideas and that we can improve over and over again.

Hats inspired by monks' clothing, brown and green color palette next to court red, models' make-up with red around the eyes and cold and proud facial expressions remind of medieval antiquity.

The show culminated in a breathtaking finale, where an image of ethereal beauty emerged. A seemingly weightless, shimmering white ball gown, seemingly floating, crowned with an intricate headdress, strode onto the stage, powerfully representing the pinnacle of Maras' artistry. This work, which captures the essence of Eleanor's indomitable spirit like a master stroke, captivated the audience; In such a way that the audience surrenders to the irresistible charm of this prince's endless legacy. Once again, Maras created a fascinating drama to prove his name as a creative designer whose creations are endless.

brand Moschino

the writer : Farinaz Ghaffari

After the strange and sad events that happened to the Moschino brand last year – from the departure of Jeremy Scott to the sudden death of Davide Renne – the attention of the fashion world turned to the brand's new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, and his much-anticipated collection. Moschino's Fall-Winter 2024 collection was Appiolaza's first collection as creative director, which was showcased in 41 looks. To design this collection, Appiolaza was inspired by the archive of the Moschino brand, especially the archive of the 90s to 2000, and repeated many of the original Franco Moschino items exactly or with maximum similarity. According to Apiulaza himself, this collection displayed courage and self-confidence.

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One of the remarkable and interesting points of this collection was its bags; A baguette and celery bag reminiscent of Moschino's 1994 collection, a small red heart bag referencing Fran Fine's iconic bag in the sitcom “The Nanny,” and a yellow smiley handbag reminiscent of Jeremy Scott's designs. The prints of question marks, polka dots, Italian flag, slogans on clothes and smiley faces in this collection also referred to Franco Moschino's special playfulness, especially in the 90s.

In an interview before the fashion show, this Argentinian designer stated that one of the greatest strengths of Franco Moschino is the creation of specific silhouettes: “In the first step, I examined Moschino's clothes and old patterns and came to the conclusion that Franco's world of fantasy and cuteness can only be summed up in clothes. It could not be, but it was also about the creation of characters. There's a sense of joy in Moschino clothes, and that's something I want to continue to use in my work.” Unlike Jeremy Scott, Apiolaza is very interested in using authentic Moschino codes in creating simpler clothes. His first collection was full of special but wearable pieces for everyday use; Including jeans, oversized jackets, simple trench coats and straight skirts, paper boat hats and attractive accessories. This series also included funny moments; At the end of the show, Apiolaza entered the hall with his little dog and paid tribute as the new creative director of the Moschino brand.