Schiaparelli brand
Author: Nasim Puyansab
The fascinating and exciting haute couture fashion week started with a stunning show from the Schiaparelli brand.
Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of the Schiaparelli fashion house, again paid tribute to the surreal thoughts of the creator of the brand; But this time with the seasoning of space and astronauts!
For this collection, Raspberry went to Elsa's family discoveries. Elsa Schiaparelli's uncle, as an astronomer in 1877, was the first to study about the planet Mars and coined the term “Mars”.
Raspberry's genius in this collection created wonderful contrasts. In this collection, he used the traditional and old techniques of embroidery and applique against the world of technology, motherboards and mobile phones as decorations on clothes and even in the shape of a baby. Seeing these Lukes and that baby, it seems that a question was formed in Daniel Raspberry's mind:
“Has technology taken over our lives?”
Daniel Rasberry, who uses innate intelligence and artistry, has gone to the prestigious archive of the Schiaparelli brand for the spring and summer 2024 haute couture collection. He recreated Elsa's skeleton dress in 1938 and recreated Elsa Schiaparelli's black shirt with white crocheted collar.
Daniel even made a clever reference to his spring/summer 2021 collection with a symbolic baby made from a motherboard.
Among other notable and prominent points of this show was the presence of suits with very broad shoulders. According to critics, these suits were a tribute to the creator of the women's suit, Yves Saint Laurent; Of course, with the difference that Yves Saint Laurent created a revolution in the fashion industry with the women's tuxedo, and Daniel Raspberry has created a double attraction by using the Proportion technique – mixing the proportions of the clothes such as very broad shoulders – and combining it with the style of surrealism.
Breaking the boundaries and linking fashion with its precious history reminds the audience and enthusiasts of the power of fashion and the couture industry.
Armani Privé brand
Author: Farinaz Ghaffari
The Armani brand unveiled its spring-summer 2024 haute couture collection on Tuesday evening at Le Palais de Tokyo or “Tokyo Palace” in Paris, which is considered one of the largest centers of contemporary art creation in Europe. The name of this collection was Haute Couture en Jeu, which is a French phrase that can have a double meaning: one means “playing with creativity in clothes” and the other “making clothes fun”. A fun game of pretending to be suspended between different cultures was the inspiration for this collection. The clothes in this collection were inspired by different cultures from the West to the East and showed the dream of a woman who is influenced by every place she visits and dresses according to that culture.
In January 2005, 89-year-old Giorgio Armani launched his first Privè collection, which includes the brand's haute couture line. He's known for sticking to his rules, but for the new collection, he made some radical changes from his usual style: “It was time to be brave, take risks and maybe be a little less ARMANI.” He described his last collection as “strange”; A relatively large collection with 92 pieces of unique clothes, each of which, contrary to the nature of the Armani brand, far from a coherent theme, told different stories for different women.
Iman Ayissi brand
Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl
According to the published calendar of Paris Haute Couture Week programs, the second show of the week belonged to the Iman Ayissi brand, which is named after the Cameroonian designer. This show was staged on January 22. In this collection, like previous collections, Iman Ayisi has mixed her African heritage with the luxury of Parisian clothes. This time, he went to his ancestral wardrobe and inspired by the wrapped fabrics around the body and layers, he has shown the relationship between the body and the fabric. He often uses traditional fabrics such as satin, taffeta and handicrafts from all over Africa, this time he has put the two together as a cohesive work.
The dominant color palette of Ayisi's collection is black and bright colors, plus the pink color that is present in all her works as her signature. Flared pants and pencil skirts are the backdrop for her layered silhouettes. Dyed and band-like strips of woven traditional textiles have been transformed into simple, poetic garments. These clothes are sewn together directly on the live model, and for this reason, the graphic structure of the models' bodies is depicted. She incorporated the kente fabric into a striking combination of pencil skirts and short collarless jackets with kimono sleeves or as the bottom half of a halter dress.
The material used by Iman Ayisi in this collection was clearly intended to honor his roots. Using natural materials such as the bark of the Abom tree, kenta cloth from Ghana and kapok fibers from Burkina Faso, he highlighted his designs in a way. One of Aisi's signatures used in this collection are fabric circles with button centers and 3D flowers made with tree bark. The wide stripes of his clothes highlight the bare shoulders of the models; While its curtain-like fabrics make the waist and hips look more prominent. With this approach, he has tried to honor African culture.
Brand Rahul Mishra
Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl
In his new collection show, Rahul Mishra has gone to the superheroes of today's world; But his superheroes are not of the Marvel and DC type, but he has gone to the small and unknown creatures of nature. This is exactly why he named his collection “Superheroes”. According to Rahul Mishra, insect biodiversity determines survival; But they are decreasing and there is a need to inform about their dangerous situation. In his new collection, he tried to portray the beauty of reptiles and insects such as fireflies, moths and dragonflies. With Indian embroidery such as zari, ektar, badla, glass beads and rhinestones in creative patterns, she has drawn attention to insect life. Mishra was directly influenced by DHLawrence's poem Mar, and apparently even tried to turn his writing into a performance piece in the form of couture.
Mishra's collection has a glorious and luxurious image that is full of eye-catching gowns, pants and capes. This collection features jeans covered with colorful butterflies and paired with a shiny black bandeau top. In addition to the color of insects and reptiles, he has considered their overall appearance for these stunning clothes. One of Mishra's major challenges has been trying to depict insects in exaggerated sizes; For example, lizards or snakes in real size! Rahul Mishra's show was opened by a model with a large black circle on the front of her dress along with a giant firefly. The image of Indian architectural windows is also used in Mishra's styles; Windows that have always welcomed insects into the house.
Black, gold, silver and magenta colors form the color palette of Rahul Mishra, which looks good in the black-silver background with silver chandeliers of the hall; But he has shown boldness by combining azure and lime green colors in this palette.
Alexis Mabille brand
Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl
“O mirror on the wall, who is the most beautiful?!”
This familiar sentence is the main idea of the “Mirror Mirror” collection by Alexis Mabil. She believes that wardrobes and cosmetics are countless possibilities for women to celebrate their femininity and become their favorite characters however they want. Explaining the main idea of his collection, he said: “The idea was to work on intimacy and closeness with ourselves; “On the moment you stand in front of the mirror every morning, talk to yourself and at the same time shape your body with the colors and lines that suit your personality, taking fashion into account, and make up your body with clothes like you make up your face.”
He believes that women have the possibility to change roles like an actress or to be sensitive themselves if they wish.
Taking these concepts into consideration, the Alexis Mabille brand has tried to move away from its usual palette of bright and bright colors and to some extent use ivory, ballet pink, beige, bronze and brown colors. Although black and bright red colors are also present in this collection; Like a glamorous red lip embroidered on a long-neck shirt, or a single eye and eyebrow designed in line with the crooked collar of a beige shirt. His simple color palette meant that there was plenty of room for embellishments. Embroidery with different tones and sequins on the suit are examples of these decorations. Although Mabil's signature, i.e. ostrich feathers or gigantic details, were less present in this collection.
As always, Mabil designed the satin and crepe fabric in a voluminous and complex way on the bodies of the models, as if she designed sculptures with a female body. Some of her dresses also had puffy sleeves and others were decorated with delicate laces like sheer skin. In this collection, he has tried to depict femininity with splendor and at the same time with an effect of everyday life.
Viktor & Ralf brand
Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl
Viktor Horsting and Ralf Snorn once again found a way to display their sense of humor and mischief in the couture collection “Viktor and Ralph Scissorhands”. This all-black collection is a collection of contrasts, seriousness versus humor, design versus improvisation, and polished versus raw materials. Although this collection looks black, it has displayed a remarkable sense of style. In the design of this collection, first seven designs were formally designed and sewn on the models. Then, from these seven designs, three more samples were produced, so that Victor, Ralph and the assistants could easily hold scissors and cut the pieces of cloth by themselves, and handed over the steering wheel to the hands of the scissors with complete playfulness.
In the statement of the concept of this collection, it is said that the goal is to bring to life the creative movements of scissors that are hidden under predetermined and decorative cuts and cannot be revealed. Bits and pieces that fit together like organized chaos. While ruining a dress may seem simple, Victo and Ralph's skill can be traced to the audience in their original pieces and cut-outs. These two have once again achieved freshness and fun without resorting to gimmicks. Perhaps the main reason is that these clothes are not intended to inspire only in the guise of a perfect work and show beauty in their imperfection.
Small details are also significant; Sparkling sequins on velvet and satin fabric and the absence of color that focuses on the silhouettes. Cropped pieces also allow the body to reveal itself in an unexpected way. These looks are completed with black socks and Christian Louboutin shoes in four models. Perhaps the best name for this series after Victor and Scissorhands Ralph is Organized Chaos. In describing their collection, the designers say: “Everything is in progress”, because what appears to be the end result is actually a new beginning.
Elie Saab brand
Author: Bahar Ehteshami
On January 24, during Haute Couture Fashion Week, Elie Saab unveiled his spring and summer 2024 collection.
This collection included 64 looks. The name of this collection was Desert Rose. According to Elie Saab, he designed this collection inspired by the magic of Morocco and the mystery of the desert. In fact, he is inspired by the complex and geometric shapes and patterns of Moroccan architecture, Arab markets and the light of the desert.
From the details of this collection, we can mention the crystal embroidery, the use of gold strips in the cuts, organza petals and feathers that were designed in the form of 3D flowers.
He tried to recreate the atmosphere of the market and the sunlight in the desert, as well as Moroccan interior designs, using stone embroideries, his unique flower embroideries, graphic lines and the use of golden decorations.
The last look of this collection was a little different from other looks. A sumptuous dress with a relatively long train, the edges of which were fully worked.
It goes without saying that in this collection, there are only 6 looks with fixed colors and 3 red silk looks without the decorations we mentioned.
In relation to the sale of works in this collection, Eli Saab brand executive director said: “Couture is not just one thing for us and like other brands, we do not use it only to build our brand image. Couture is the main and central part of our DNA and, of course, an important part of our business, which has limitations in terms of growth and expansion due to the specificity of our customers; But it remains an important business line.”
One of the special guests of this show is Jennifer Lopez, who attracted the attention of photographers and attendees of the show with a dress from this brand.
The cape she was wearing was like one of the looks in this collection of feathers that were designed in the shape of raised flowers. Also, his jewelry belonged to Hassanzadeh brand.
Jean Paul Gaultier brand
Written by Nasim Puyansab
On January 24, Irish fashion designer Simone Rocha presented her spring-summer 2024 collection as a guest designer for Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Rocha is known in the fashion world for designing clothes full of exciting femininity, extraordinary aesthetics and voluminous silhouettes. Also, the use of fixed motifs such as bows with ribbons and decoration with pearls are characteristics of the Rocha brand. He thinks of the Gauthier archive as a living thing with a modern soul.
The fashion house of Jean Paul Gaultier has 3 main and symbolic codes: sailor stripes, corsets and prints like tattoos on clothes.
So, for the spring-summer 2024 collection, Simone Rocha, while maintaining his personal signature, went to combine it with the archive and the valuable source and the original codes of Gaultier and started to reinterpret the iconic pieces.
For example, Simone Rocha created a curve and presented a new interpretation in the form of the conical and iconic Gaultier bra, which is considered a revolution in the world of fashion. This new form of bra was reminiscent of a rose blade that was seen in the hands of some models.
The Irish designer also recreated Gaultier's sailor stripes and corsets with his signature satin ribbons.
Rosha said about this collaboration:
“I wanted to create a collection that was attractive, seductive and full of a sense of feminine power, presenting new ideas with Gauthier's high-quality and precise sewing techniques.”
In this collection, some of the looks had references to the clothes that Jean-Paul Gaultier designed for choreographer Régine Chopinot for the film Le Défilé in 1986.
With Rocha's research in Gauthier's archive; She has discovered a common interest between herself and Gauthier: the use of crochet.
So he designed a silver lace and crocheted shirt that evoked a space-age feel, a theme that seems to have been a favorite of Haute Couture fashion week designers.
Despite all the efforts of Simon Rocha, he called this collaboration a kind of gift. But according to many critics, none of the strange and reckless elements and spirit that Gauthier displayed for decades could be seen in this show.
Georges Hobeika brand
Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl
The new Hobika couture collection, like a time machine, takes the audience to an unrestrained and glamorous celebration in the heart of Beirut, George Hobika's hometown; But not today's Beirut, but Beirut 1960. Paying homage to the Arab world and referring to the luxury and beauty of Middle Eastern women, this collection deals with the creative aspects of the region's culture and tries to portray the happy spirit of this region. Throughout this collection, the contrast between emotionality and humility is evident; It's as if the clothes are spinning in a charming choreography inspired by oriental dance. In these designs, while the curves of the body are displayed and enhanced, the hands are hidden and move gently along the clothes with the gloves that have become an integral element of the collection. The bags of this collection are also completely consistent with its sense of playfulness and detail.
Many nostalgic elements from the Arab world from the 50s to the 70s are present in the styles of this collection. Elements that remind of the joy of Arab parties, bright and full entertainment and the noise of this culture. Although modernism is well shown in the clothes so that the effectiveness of these designs in today's world is not forgotten. Colorful silhouettes and delicate details radiate the warmth of the Arabian spirit and, like a love letter from Hobika's designers (George and Judd Hobika), showcase the hope and compassion of the women who nurtured them.
In addition to the warm color palette seen in vibrant silhouettes of red, green, pink, purple and blue, there are also many different references; Like the traditional Lebanese coffee cup, which was not only present in the form of a motif on the fabrics, but also hung on the models' ears as earrings. The coffee bean was also one of the repeated motifs of the fabrics in a twisting pattern, which in the Arab culture of Lebanon means predicting happiness. Traces of Middle Eastern carpets and rugs were also easily recognizable on the fabrics, from the color palette and patterns of the rugs to the roots on the sides of the rugs, which were well placed in the bags and curved cuts of the clothes.
Another important reference in this collection was honoring the memory of M Kulthum, a popular Lebanese singer. Her famous dress design, worn by one of the models as she walked on stage to her song, was a reminder of this important figure in music history. In this collection, GEORGES HOBEIKA went to the details of his childhood memories, Arab gardens, wooden backgammon boards, radios whose music filled the house, and the joy of noble parties, all can be seen in his collection.
Fendi brand
Author: Fateme Sadeghi
On January 25, 2024, the Fendi brand unveiled its spring and summer collection at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. It can be said that in Fendi's spring 2024 haute couture show, Kim Jones has combined softness and creativity with Lagerfeld's futurism. He is inspired by the style of Karl Lagerfeld to offer designs with a minimal and spatial feel.
This simplicity and look to the future was also quite noticeable in the decor of the show. On the other hand, the use of metal and silver color in the stage design also refers to the design of the collection.
Also, the soundtrack with the combination of electronic instruments helped create the atmosphere of the show.
This Fendi collection attracted a lot of attention with its hand-embroidered and detailed clothes, while being simple and practical.
In fact, this collection deals with attractive contrasts between simple and unadorned clothes next to heavy and hand-embroidered clothes. The transparent frameless glasses from the 2000s also looked like a shining diamond in the simulation of the future world.
In this collection, Jones has paid attention to professionalism and expression of feeling at the same time and has benefited from the contrast between ambitious and simple designs.
Despite the utilitarian and functional clothing in the collection, the furry and busy coats show that Jones has a penchant for creative and even non-functional clothing. Of course, this charm and creativity shows the reason why famous customers return to this artist's unique clothes.
Jones also seeks feedback from the well-dressed women around her, and Silvia Fendi and her daughter's involvement in offering custom baguette bags and modern eyewear is a testament to this.
Another notable point of this collection is that Jones paid attention to the increase in demand for red dresses on the red carpet in his spring couture dresses, and in addition, he used dresses with a silver color spectrum. These dresses, although they look simple on the screen, but they attract attention with detailed details and varied textures.
In general, it can be concluded from this collection that Jones is interested in practical clothes with a feeling of comfort and relaxation, and this choice is part of his success.
Zendaya's appearance at the Fendi fashion show in a dress from the collection was a combination of boldness and impractical creativity, and it seems that the impractical aspects of Jones' designs always attract people like Zendaya.
Considering the looks of this collection, how successful do you think Kim Jones and Tim Fendi have been in expressing the concept of their collection designs?
brand Maison Margiela
the writer: Farinaz Ghaffari
Last night, Maison Margiela's unique show was held at the last show of Paris Couture Fashion Week 2024, and the week ended with great grandeur under the rain. John Galliano, the brand's creative director, presented a theatrical masterpiece that combined fashion, art and drama. Everything about this show was unique and scary at the same time: from the venue, which was a creepy underground cafe on the Pont Alexandre III, to the costumes, the sloppy hairstyles, the thick and oily makeup, and even the models' walking style, reminiscent of Cookie dolls were haunted.
Theater, romantic relationships and historical legends have always been Galliano's source of inspiration; This time, he went to the Hungarian artist, Brassaï, and was inspired by the painter's portraits from the 1920s and 1930s, which depicted the underground night clubs and under the skin of the streets of Paris. This show was a journey into the heart of Paris nightlife. In this black and cinematic fictional world, Galliano's clothes were a testament to his unique skill and vision; Each piece spoke of “seduction” and emphasized the anatomy of the human body with a focus on the narrow waist and prominent lower torso. Ingenious use of Victorian corsets, glossy and doll makeup, worried faces, scared walking and playing with lighting; They were a story of a combination of fashion and drama that presented unpredictable silhouettes. The collection, while dark yet seductive, was also a celebration of artistry and creativity: special cuts, very tight corsets, accentuated hips, shoes like animal hooves and very transparent and figure-hugging fabrics, a certain splendor and beauty. The set was forgiving and showed lovers, dancers and gangsters wandering the beach and heading to the nightclub.
Finally, we suggest you read the article Everything about Fashion Week to learn more about the history of this global event.
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