New York Fashion Week, Fall/Winter 2024-25

Helmut Lang brand

Author: Fateme Daneshvar

The Helmut Lang brand opened New York Fashion Week. This brand, designed by Peter Do, sent its models on the stage on the first day of New York Fashion Week.

Hours before the fashion show, Helmut Lang presented his concept to his audience in the form of a video, “Protection against self-expression”. Do we choose the way we dress to protect ourselves or to present an image of ourselves? The concept of this duality was what Peter Doe intended to present to us in this series.

From the very first moment, Peter Doe surprised the fans of this brand by placing Kirsten Owens, the old model of the Helmut Lang brand, in the position of the first look. The material that was chosen for the clothes of this model was made of bubble plastics that you may have seen in the packaging of breakable or expensive accessories; This look exactly showed the concept of the show, “Clothes to protect ourselves” in the eyes of the audience. It didn't take long for the show to be criticized. In one of the most obvious reviews, it was mentioned that although this collection is presented more boldly and with more confidence than the previous collection, it has caused less noise and controversy.

Models walked on the stage wearing very practical clothes. The combination of these clothes with avant-garde details created bold looks.

One of the most prominent aspects of this collection was the skillful use of contrasting textures and materials. Hardened leather was juxtaposed with fine silk, while industrial metal tools adorned soft, flowing fabrics. Du also pointed to the strange reverse stitching of the jackets and said that he had been involved in many trials and errors for these jackets for months; He also mentioned that he wants people to be able to recognize his tailoring from miles away.

The color palette of the collection fluctuated between raw and gray colors and bright and neon colors. Coats, jackets and oversized puffer jackets draped the models, evoking a sense of protection and comfort, while delicate fabrics and cuts expressed a sense of transparency.

Accessories played an essential role in conveying the show's message. Chunky combat boots, mask-like helmets that protected the face, the integration of vests and tailoring techniques all demonstrated that in today's uncertain world we need armor that is both emotional and physical.

Overall, Helmut Lang's Defense Against Self-Expression show was a contemporary fashion show that challenged the boundaries of design. In a world where the line between authenticity and fakeness is constantly blurring, Long's collection was a poignant reminder of fashion's power to reflect and shape our perceptions of the world around us.

Collina Strada brand

the writer : Farinaz Ghaffari

On Friday evening, at Rockefeller Center in New York, Collina Strada's new collection titled “Stronger” was unveiled in 36 looks. Hillary Taymour, creative director of the brand, invited her guests to the Collina Club with the aim of showing the power of femininity in sustainable fashion; Where, according to Timur's opinion, the subtle inner feminine power transforms into the sleek and muscular outer power.

The focus of the silhouette of most of the clothes in this collection was on showing large and muscular arms. Some clothes were layered according to Timur's usual habit, and all the fabrics in this collection were recycled fabrics. The prints of the fabrics followed Colina Estrada's consistent taste: florals, plaids and bright colors. The runway space also consisted of large monitors on the ceiling that played AI-generated videos during the show.

But the interesting point of this collection was the variety of models. The models of this collection were of all races, ages, sizes and positions; From young black athletic girls to older white ladies, skinny and plus size models, pregnant women, mothers and even the disabled. American actress Gina Gershon's surprise catwalk was also one of the attractions of this show. During the show, models walked the runway with serious faces and sometimes clenched fists to remind women of their power.

Although this collection was made of lifeless fabrics, Hilary Taymor's live and classic graphics gave the clothes a special vibrancy; Each dress expressed the phrase “femininity is power itself”. In the meantime, there were dumbbells made of pumpkins in the hands of the models, who brought metaphor and humor to the runway.

Taimur stated the purpose of choosing his source of inspiration as follows: Women always pass the progress situations that come to them easily because of many issues such as children, family and sometimes physical limitations. On the other hand, for a long time, men's imagination has presented the female body as a perfect and chiseled body in the minds of the general public.

It was high time that a new definition of femininity was made and this doll and perfect image of women became a reality: a body that sweats after exercise and has various natural imperfections, has the power to choose for itself even with limitations and In the end, it is beautiful in any way. Timur sums up this collection in one phrase: bulging the body (enlargement of muscles after exercise), because it is both a sign of strength and a sign of the reality of women's bodies.