12,000-year-old drink; This coffee is not coffee at all!

As far back as memory serves, residents of Gaziantep have harvested wild pistachios to make a special, nutty concoction that doubles as a home remedy. (BBC)

As the weather cools down, travelers head to Gaziantep, a city in southeastern Türkiye near the Syrian border. In late autumn, snow covers the high peaks of the surrounding mountains. Upon entering one of the oldest coffeehouses in the world, which was established in 1635 AD, you can see people gathered around the wood-burning stove in the center of the room, which radiates a pleasant warmth.

Photographer: Unknown / Alamy

Light streams in through stained glass windows and customers sip from small cups decorated with elaborate geometric patterns. Some choose the thick and rich Turkish coffee, which is popular throughout the country. But the cafe’s specialty is something rarely seen outside of the region and worth the long journey: Menengich coffee (or Kurdish coffee), an ancient, nutrient-dense, caffeine-free drink that’s actually not coffee at all.

Made from the roasted and ground fruit of the baneh tree, a type of wild pistachio, meningich has a nutty and slightly bitter taste. This drink is so rooted in the culinary identity of Gaziantep that it received the geographical indication of the European Union in 2024. Although the drink is popular throughout southeastern Turkey and even parts of Iraq, for local residents, this traditional brew is more than just a coffee substitute and is actually an age-old home remedy.

Food experts in the region remember that in winters, families would always prescribe a cup of meningich to treat coughs or colds. While Turkish tea or coffee is usually served at social gatherings, for sick people, Meningich is the first choice.

Photographer: Jen Rose Smith / www.bbc.com

Of course, the use of Meningich is not only limited to its therapeutic properties. Tourists who travel to southeast Türkiye to visit the historical heritage, from Neolithic sites to Roman ruins, are also attracted to this drink. The experience of drinking an alternative to coffee, which is obtained from wild trees grown in the north of the ancient region of Mesopotamia and the cradle of civilization, has a rare attraction for travelers of this historical land.

In cafes, orders are served in cups with small metal dome lids to retain heat. A thick layer of foam covers it, just like the cream on a great espresso. Usually made with milk and fatty wild pistachios, this drink has a rich, delicious texture that makes it a comforting option.

Photographer: Jen Rose Smith / www.bbc.com

Although some cafes are more famous for offering this product, this drink can be found everywhere. The sound of the mills grinding the seeds into a dark and inky paste is the soundtrack of the city’s historic covered markets. In the narrow alleys, baskets full of pearl-like, blue-green Meningich seeds are seen on the pavements.

Modern science is also reaching the knowledge of traditional medicines of this region. Although human clinical trials are few, research supports the benefits of papaya, which is rich in protein and minerals. Early research has also investigated its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which is scientific confirmation of meningechi’s long-standing reputation as a winter tonic.

The story of Menengich coffee (or Kurdish coffee) is mainly passed down orally, but it has ancient roots. Local legends say that one of the Ottoman sultans tried this drink while passing through this area during a military campaign in the 17th century.