Paris Fashion Week, Fall and Winter 2024-2025

Saint Laurent brand

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Author: Yardocht Haddadi

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Transparent and more transparent fabrics! As seen in the 2024/2025 fall and winter collection of Anthony Vaccarello – creative director of the Yves Saint Laurent brand – the trend of transparent fabrics has been used in different ways in looks.

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These bodycon dresses were primarily designed as a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent's iconic designs; He was one of the pioneers of using transparent fabric for women's clothing. In addition, Marilyn Monroe's famous shirt on the night of John F. Kennedy's birthday was also a source of inspiration for creating these looks.

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All the models wore a turban-like covering made of glass tights. This style of head covering can be reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent's personal interest in using turbans. He displayed this interest in his oriental collections in 1976 (inspired by Russian ballet) and 1982 (Indian collection).

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Yves Saint Laurent's fall and winter collection boldly used thin and delicate fabrics, contrary to the existing routine; Of course, next to the elegance of the bow-neck blouses and glass shirts along with narrow belts, some winter items were also seen. Beatnik-style leather jackets with a circular shape on the body, full coats worked with feathers (inducing the feeling of fur coats with a look at this year's mobwife trend!) and of course footer coats with the well-known silhouette of Saint Laurent, broad shoulders and a narrow body, are among the few suitable items. It was cold season. Luke's warm color palette of various brown and ocher ranges – plus a popular color of the year, burgundy -, dark atmosphere with minimal light and wet stage floor that reminded of the streets of Paris, along with the popular perfume of the Saint Laurent brand, Opium, is a show. They formed the full-fledged

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brand Balmain

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Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl

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Bordeaux-style autumn picnic

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A checkered rug, a basket of fruit and a glass of grape wine in the cool of an autumn evening is the beginning of the story of the new Balmain collection. Olivier Rousteing, the designer of this brand, who showed his African heritage in menswear in his collection last month, this time went to his feminine identity as a person born in the city of Bordeaux and recreated his sweet childhood with his godmother and godfather. In fact, he dedicated an entire collection to his childhood home of Bordeaux, before moving to Paris to work for Roberto Cavalli. In addition, in an interview before the show, he reported that the collection was practically a love note to his godmother Lydia Rousting, who, of course, had seen the collection and loved it very much and felt a sense of belonging to it; Accordingly, there are many signs of Oliver Rousting's childhood in this collection, which sit beautifully in their place.

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The main design of this collection is the trench coat, which was Lydia's main cover when Oliver was a child. Rousting has taken ideas from this dress in many ways and created attractive and new designs. Raincoats with strong shoulders in the form of tops and hooded skirts or decorated with belts with large stones are examples of this creativity. Dresses with very sharp and prominent necklines or with metal edging paired with roman trousers suggest that Rousting was inspired by the brand's 1960 collection in addition to his godmother.

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Another sign that Rousting has placed in this collection is the reference to the elements of interest in the city of Bordeaux. The city, which is the capital of the wine region of France, is rich in grapes, which is why grapes are used as patterns on fabrics, as earrings or pendants from models' bags, and as glass fruits in lace shopping bags in the hands of actors on stage. This show had an impressive presence. In addition to grapes, Bordeaux is also known for its oysters, and this has led to the fact that the trace of the presence of oysters can be identified in this collection; But the most interesting element is perhaps the inspiration from the checkered fabrics of the underlays that Rousting has in mind from childhood picnics and has put it well in his collection.

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One of the remarkable points of this show was the presence of models in different age groups, especially young people, which is obviously derived from the childhood relationship between Rousting and the collection. Although nostalgia was the key word for the show, Rousting noted that it was about more than just reminiscing. He believes that in fashion, the beauty of diversity and differences is passed, and for this reason, he tried to represent diversity based on the past; Of course, the brand's usual signatures can also be seen in this collection; Like the powerful buttons that Rousting placed on the original jackets or the monochromatic stripes of navy, silver and crystal that were reproduced on the dresses. This collection represented Rousting's beliefs that he tries to display through his experience and expertise in fashion.

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A journey to the depth of courage and sensitivity!

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brand Isabel Marant

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Author: Roya Attarzadeh Asl

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Isabel Marant's autumn and winter collection is a document of her claim that she does not intend to create a revolution; Rather, he designs clothes that he is interested in wearing. In this collection, in cooperation with his art director Kim Becker, he has remained faithful to his roots while entering the unknown territory and breaking the pre-made boundaries. The inspiring roots of Marant and Becker convey a sense of strength and western authenticity to the audience and have clearly placed individuality at its center point. This collection aims to empower women to embrace their true selves with self-confidence and love.

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Marant returned to her bohemian roots for the design of this collection and created an image of an urban cowgirl who rides a horse in Paris today and attracts all eyes with clothes full of bold animal prints, rooted jackets and leather boots. The untamed beauty of wild nature, the landscape of vast plains and desert horizons easily ripples through Marant's clothes. The presence of the cowboy culture trend this season was not far from expected, as Ferrell created the expectation that we will have a huge return to this style with his pre-fall collection for Louis Vuitton; Also, the cinema intensified the desire for this type of design with the cowhide clothing of Barbie and Ken.

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The use of natural materials such as leather along with industrial fabrics shows the futuristic approach of this brand. Leather is at the center of this collection and combines elegance and utility. He has cleverly included all the trends of the season in his collection; In addition to animal designs and the centrality of leather, the red color spectrum has made room in his color palette to give new life to this color along with other brands. According to Becker, red color has been added to this collection to show off women's strength and courage. Ruffles (roots on the side of the dress) and large suede scarves embellished with holes, decorative studs and pearls created a combination of strength and sophistication, signs that definitely influenced Marant's men's collection as well.

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Marant's new Fall/Winter is full of casual items, from rock 'n' roll leopard jeans to casual hoodies and sweaters, complemented by chunky cable knits and clutches of jewelry; But each garment has its own aesthetic that reflects his unwavering commitment to art. Meanwhile, we see luxurious fabrics that are beautifully wrapped around the body and with jeweled belts and rhinestones, they depict a beautiful combination of boldness and feminine sensitivity. Marant accessories can be easily sold and presented; Boots with detachable metal chains, metal bangles or crossbody bags in beige and brown that remind you that you can carry a laptop, a Stanley flask and baby diapers without needing help. Short skirts and baggy, olive-colored pants bring the sophisticated and familiar elegance of this brand to the stage to convey freshness to today's audience, which is drowned in smoke and dust.

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brand Vetements

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Author: Fateme Daneshvar

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Goram Gvasalia, creative designer of the brand Vetements, celebrated the ten year anniversary of his brand on Friday. Before the show, he told his fans: “This is the show you've been waiting for the most and it's going to surprise you!” It can be said that Guram achieved his wish to a great extent in this show; From the lighting and red carpet of the showroom to the choice of models and celebrities who were invited, they all looked bolder than ever.

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The show had a total of 90 looks and attracted many stars to the seats to watch. Celebrities who attended the show included Julia Fox, Cher, and rappers such as Tyga and Johnny Cash, who, as always, wore a strange diver's outfit. Another surprising event of this collection was the presence of Georgina Rodriguez among the models. She appeared in a dress dedicated to her husband, Cristiano Ronaldo. In addition to Georgina's presence, the appearance of popular actress Marcia Cross in the last look was also notable.

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In this collection, like the previous collections, there were many oversized clothes; Graphic t-shirts, oversized coats, floor-length skirts, shiny gowns, and teddy bear coats made up the bulk of the models' outfits.

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As you know, before Goram, his brother Demna, the creative designer of the Balenciaga brand, was in charge of designing the Vetements brand. The existence of competition and family problems between these two brothers does not seem strange. A graphic design on one of the hoodies with the words “YOU'RE A TOWEL” poked fun at Balenciaga's towel skirts, and the placement of Anwar Hadid in a T-shirt that read “The person who “NOT MOM'S FAVORITE” exposed the difference between the two brothers more.

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Bringing drama to his show, Guram wants you not to forget Vetements! The show of this brand at the Paris Fashion Week emphasized and made many references to pop culture. Despite some of the criticisms raised, Guram Gvasalia's designs were still noticed and discussed in the fashion industry. He managed to add some charm to his designs by using interesting structures and new details.

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Balenciaga brand

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Author: Farinaz Ghaffari

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Balenciaga's controversial Fall-Winter 2024 collection began with an audio message from the brand's creative director. “As you know, I question the things I love through my work,” said Demna, who decided to provide an audio commentary at the start of the show rather than leave a note on the guests' seats. I will take Some of the questions I've been thinking about lately are: What is luxury? What is fashion and why is it important? What I do is suitable for whom? Is fashion itself enough? In a world that is saturated with different contents, is anything enough at all? what is enough Of course, my goal is not necessarily to find answers to my questions, but it is the questioning process that is important in itself. In my opinion, luxury is a kind of lack; Because it is not available indefinitely. But what seems to be really rare right now is creativity. I believe that today creativity has become a new form of luxury.

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In the continuation of this voice message, Demena added: “My goal of this show is to show the link between the past and the future of Balenciaga, which is a brand based on “creativity”. The collection starts with clothes inspired by the silhouettes and heritage of CRISTÓBAL and gradually approaches my frames. My goal with this show is to redefine the concept of beauty, to present recognizable styles and to consider how clothes fit during different body behaviors and movements. This collection is about the aesthetic approach that I have been trying to evolve for 10 years at Balenciaga. This collection is about recognizing and belonging to this aesthetic and fashion that is important to me. Thank you and have a nice day.”
Then the models entered the stage.

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Everything about this fashion show was controversial and interesting; From the way of inviting the guests to the runway full of screens, the styles of the guests and also the chewing gum of the models during the catwalk! To invite her guests, Demna randomly bought a vintage device from eBay and sent it to them. This made each guest's invitation gift unique and different from others. Souvenirs were antique objects that instilled a familiar yet mysterious feeling to people; Just like Balenciaga's recent collection. The clothes of the first row guests of this show were also controversial and interesting. The presence of Cole Sprouse with an oversized coat with very wide shoulders and giant shoes, Kim Kardashian's tag shirt, PPKRIT's strange red dress, and Lisa Rinna's black dress with big shoulders were among the most controversial styles of the Balenciaga show guests.

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The space of the show consisted of several monitors that were embedded all over the walls and even the floor, each showing different videos of world landmarks, videos of Tiktokers, and landscapes stitched together with Ai. This type of spatialization had a metaphor of the human mind; With this space, Demena showed that today the human mind is surrounded by billions of distractions (especially social networks). The accessories of this collection were special like the rest: dystopian glasses, clothing tags that were considered as accessories, the use of phones instead of bracelets, bags instead of clothes and gloves instead of bags, and also hats that were pulled down to the nose. Perhaps, Demena is pulled down with hats and this model of big glasses, which were like blindfolds, was trying to suggest to the viewers of his collection not to see and not pay attention in the midst of a lot of distractions.

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All 68 looks of the collection were a combination of the aesthetics of Cristobal Balenciaga and Demena, and evoked in the mind of the viewer one of Demena's questions: “Is perfection more important or imperfection?”. After leaving the Vetements brand that belonged to him and his younger brother Guram, and after leaving the rumors of differences between the two, Demna has always tried to show off his creativity and new perspective with his new collections in Balenciaga and follow his values. slow The presence of special prints and embroidery in some looks, such as the embroidery of the eBay site logo, which the invitation boxes were ordered from this site, the use of several underwear to create a complete outfit in the last look, striped and very large sports pants next to giant shoes. , the use of wide glue to fit some clothes, following the leopard print trend, highlighting the hips, wearing a coat over a shirt and large shoulders in most pieces, all told about Demna's special taste and creativity in creating this collection. Demna's fall-winter 2024 collection also conveys the feeling that you can create clothes from anything, you just need to spend a little thought and creativity.

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