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A poetic display of the juxtaposition of the waves of silk fabrics and the persistence of colored leathers heralds the return of Chloe's special femininity.
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The latest show of the French brand Chloé, with the nostalgic designs of Chemna Kamali, the brand's new creative director, was met with many positive feedbacks; It's as if Chamna revived that spirit of a playful and cheerful woman who is stylish and comfortable at the same time. The same spirit that was created by Gabby Aghion since the birth of Chloe and Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Faylo and Claire White continued it well with their own special look.
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Chamna Kamali, who designed her first collection in the Chloe brand for fall 2024, said:
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“I want to bring back the feeling I first experienced 20 years ago when I walked through the door and fell in love with the spirit of the woman who epitomized Chloe's spirit. I want to feel his presence again; Her beat, her natural beauty, her sense of freedom and non-conformity. He is real. He is himself.”
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Chloe's history and identity
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Since its birth in 1952, the Chloe brand has offered simple and wearable clothing for women. Stylish jackets, loose shirts and transparent blouses in a range of white, beige and pink colors all kept their beauty while paying attention to the real life of women. Chloe was one of the first fashion houses that started working with the idea of ready to wear and stayed away from haute couture.
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Balance is at the core of the Chloe brand, and this is the foundation that Jewish-Egyptian immigrant Agyon envisioned for her brand. “He wanted to free women from the rigidity of fashion,” says Kamali. He wanted women to be free, to move and go to work; But still have the motivation and feeling of youth.”
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Chloe has a long history of creating carefree feminine designs that appeal to boho fans. Kamali believes that Chloe's identity is tied to nostalgia and boho.
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According to him, Chloe has a very nostalgic personality. Nostalgic in the sense that when you look at something, it creates a special feeling in you, and at the same time, it takes on the power of today and evokes your sense of a modern woman in your mind.
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This is the essence of boho; A dress that searches past styles and finally creates a design suitable for today's world using an old and retro idea.
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Chamna Kamali, the fresh creative director of Chloe
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Chamna Kamali, born in Dusseldorf, Germany and educated at Central Saint Martins, was chosen as the creative director of the Chloe brand from 2023. This choice is significant because of her work behind the scenes of the brand and because she is the only woman to be appointed creative director of a luxury fashion house in recent years.
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No one knows Chloe's woman-centric philosophy better than her. First of all, Kamali is a supporter of Khloe's propaganda. He also did an internship under the management of Phoebe Failo during the golden period of this brand and was appointed as her design assistant. Then he worked with Keller White Keller as a brand design manager.
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Kamali knows how clothes and accessories should fit the life of a real woman. She is the mother of a young child and at the same time has a powerful job. His own clothes should be suitable for working and playing with his child on the floor.
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Chamna intends to create another golden era through communication with consumers. He said backstage:
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“It means a lot to bring (Chloe) back to life and revisit those feelings – I've always said I'd like to bring back the feeling I had over twenty years ago when I fell in love with Chloe… This collection is primarily about intuition and feminine energy. and I really want women to have this feeling; Because I feel it too.”
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The return of boho girl Chloe in the fall of 2024
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Dubbed “Intuition”, “Looking Back” or “Homecoming”, Chloe's Fall 2024 collection was full of items with a boho aesthetic. Thin kaftan-shaped shirts, ponchos and leather raincoats, iconic Chloe blouses, which were among the favorite items of the founder of this brand, pants and jackets with beard decorations, over-the-knee boots and square shoes of this collection are all reminiscent of boho chic style.
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A combination of bohemian and hippie aesthetic elements make up the so-called boho chic style. This style is characterized by loose or loose clothing, often made of natural fabrics. The combination of patterns, textures and various accessories can be seen in bohoshik. This style often includes vintage and culturally inspired accessories and emphasizes comfort and individual expression. Boho chic looks can include denim, patchwork, suede, silk, lace, plaid, floral, and plain designs.
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A look at Chamna's past can be seen in many items such as Gabi Agion's popular wallpapers, styling and use of Lagerfeld style fabrics, accessories and practical clothes by Filo and McCartney, which we will discuss below.
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Chamna's strong interest in blues was seen in almost all the styles. He, who recently worked as the design director of Saint Laurent and as a design consultant at Frame, has a collection of more than 600 vintage blouses; Romantic blouses, which were styled in different ways under the coat or in a messy and fallen way on wide pants and short crotch.
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Classic clothes such as trench coats with colored leathers – one of the anticipated trends this year – and plaid coats with special fits were seen.
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In the special styling of this collection, we saw shirts whose edges were placed inside the boots. This trick was the result of Kamali's deep study in the brand archive; In the 70s, Lagerfeld implemented this idea.
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After the show, Kamali said backstage that he was paying attention to both Lagerfeld's time at the house and Agyon's progressive vision for the brand. He said that both had an uncanny ability to “see the past and the future simultaneously.”
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Attractive details were also seen in the mostly golden accessories of this collection; Like a belt with Chloe's name on it, which was handwritten by Agion's friends. It is interesting to know that some accessories were made of natural grain vegetable leather. Kamali mentioned that these leathers get better with time. He said his intention was to make something that was not too expensive and would be a practical choice.
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A huge part of Chloe's fame is owed to the bags of this brand, and in this collection, bags from former designers of the brand were mentioned; Phoebe Failo's Paddington Lock Bag and MacGibbon-era Trapezoidal Tote Bag, with uniquely shaped handles and gold trim, first introduced in 2008. Also, a banana and pineapple-shaped bag was seen in the collection, as Stella McCartney played with these shapes in jewelry.
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last word
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As a brand, Chloe is always trying to strike a balance between romantic, functional designs and a sense of playfulness. A seasoned luxury fashion professional, Kamali really knows how to coordinate all these elements. By looking at the work of Chloe's past designers, he has created a modern collection with a new interpretation. As mentioned, in this collection we saw the return of boho style; The careless woman Chloe! Chamna Kamali called Chloe's boho appearance far from futility and absurdity and interpreted it as freedom for women.
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References:
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www.wmagazine.com
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www.harpersbazaar.com
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www.theguardian.com
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www.vogue.com
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