London Fashion Week, Autumn and Winter 2024

brand Erdem

the writer : Farinaz Ghaffari

Erdem's Fall-Winter 2024 collection became one of the most elegant shows on the second day of London Fashion Week. Erdem Moralioglu, the owner and creative director of the Erdem brand, unveiled his new collection in 47 looks inspired by the femininity, personal life and professional life of the famous opera singer “Maria Callas” at the British Museum. Celebrity guests such as Nicola Coughlan, Lily James and Zawe Ashton were also on the front row of the show.

Greek-American Maria Callas was one of the most famous soprano singers in the years after World War II. His life on the stage was perfect and perfect, but off it was full of tragic and sad events; Moralioglu stated that the reason for choosing “Kalas” as a concept was the closeness of the singer's personal life to the romantic and sad operas that he beautifully performed: “I became fascinated by the contrast between his personal and professional life.” The complex psychology of women of the past, the singer's floral and belted dresses while singing and performing her Medea in 1953, all inspired Erdem in creating this beautiful collection.

Floral prints, tulip-shaped brooches and shoes topped with rose-shaped bows alluded to the flowers that people threw on stage and at Maria Callas' feet after each performance. The makeup of this collection also reminded the moments behind the scenes of Kalas performances; The hairstyles and nets on the head referred to the time when the singer took off his performance hats; Thick eye make-up along with erased or pale lipsticks also pointed to the same time. Also, in this collection, there are hints of Erdem's spring-summer collection; Like the feathered shoes that reminded me of England's Chatsworth hens.

The space of the show was nothing separate from the concept: the models moved in a space full of “Parthenon statues” which in England are called “Elgin marble facades”; while Nadine Benjamin was performing an aural opera. The Parthenon statues were built in the fifth century by the Greek architect “Pedias”; But in the 19th century, they were transferred from Athens to Britain by the representatives of Earl Elgin VII. Since 1983, the cultural ownership of these sculptures has been the main issue of dispute between Greece, the London Museum and the British government; Because these statues are one of the most important collections of classical art in the world. Moralioglu said after the show: “Maria was born in New York; But he grew up in Athens. With this space, I wanted to remind everyone that he is Greek. The idea of ​​someone like me being born in one country but raised in another has always been interesting to me.”

Richard Quinn brand

Author: Seyedah Fatemeh Sadeghi

On Saturday, February 17, Richard Quinn's fall 2024 women's collection was unveiled at London Fashion Week.

Critics believe that Richard Quinn, with his couture clothes, is one of the designers in the British fashion industry who, with the innovation and style of his fabrics, distances himself from industrial fashion and meaningless slogans.

Now, in the space of this designer's new show, a sense of enchantment was created, which was similar to the musical theater shows of the 1950s, and the atmosphere was in such a way that it seemed that this collection was shown in the great Victoria hall.

Richard Quinn's shows express the joy and flow of life; For example, this show, like some of his past fashion shows, featured a Welsh band with singer Hannah Grace performing American classics.

“We do all the manufacturing and cutting in-house,” Richard Quinn said of the show, which he held in a hall with his signature floral patterned fabrics at London's Andaz Hotel. Sewing is done elsewhere, but all products are produced in our workshop.”

Also, he said about the fact that the remaining fabrics from the show were sold to a retailer: “In our brand, nothing is produced that is useless.”

In this show, a significant part of the clothes that were inspired by the traditional men's evening clothes were presented.

At the end, the floor of the hall was covered with ostrich feathers.

The use of flower patterns in the show and the collection is a constant signature of Richard Quinn since 2017, and it is the common point of this collection with his past collections. It can also be said that her new collection is similar to Queen's spring 2024 collection.

Of course, Quinn's Fall 2024 collection is not the only reminder of his previous works, and some believe that this Richard Quinn collection is reminiscent of Balenciaga's couture in the 60s.

The remarkable thing about the fall 2024 collection is that about a quarter of the presented collection were wedding dresses.

You can tell he really has special skills when it comes to designing a couture show: the combination of square columns, ice cliffs and snowflakes that cinched at the waist were technically perfect and great examples of classic clothes with new twists. In this collection, the black velvet dresses were reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn, the classic American actress!

In his collection, Quinn pointed out that “his designs are not going out of fashion and can always be used” as follows:

“Clothes are designed to be passed down from a mother to her daughter in the future.”

Richard Quinn's Fall 2024 collection seems to have been inspired by everyday life and British heritage. Also, the musical influence can be seen in Queen's collection as in his past collections.

The London-based designer honed his skills at established brands such as Christian Dior and Saville, before launching his own label in 2017. He specializes in women's clothing and printed fabrics, and his collections are bold and emotional. Quinn creates clothes using new technologies and combines unique craftsmanship with aesthetic and fashion sense.

Do you think Richard Quinn's new collection is a successful presentation of designs that never go out of style?

David Koma brand

Name of the author: Nasim Puyansab

Last night, David Koma's Fall 2024 fashion show featured a bold and intriguing mix of the designer's usual homage to successful women and dance stars.

In its fall collection, Kuma was inspired by the leading figures in the world of dance and the influential sculptures of Rebecca Horn. He has explained about the spark that struck in his mind when he saw the exhibition of the sculptor artist as follows:

“The space of the exhibition, along with the light and sound, were very pleasant and matched my taste. It was there that I started searching the world of dance and rhythmic movements as the main source of my new collection.”

One of the highlights of this collection was the combination of casual wear style with dance wear. Items in black and white colors that were beautifully styled with socks – from the trends of 2024. This collection had options for those interested in sexy, short and body-hugging clothes; At the same time, items such as shirts and long jackets were also seen for those interested in more coverage.

This David Koma collection, like his other collections, included a full range of day wear, evening wear and even night wear with beautiful and high-quality sewing. Elegant evening dresses inspired by ballet dresses and nets, beautifully recreated.

Kuma, who used feathers in this collection in a more magnificent way, said after the show:

We tried to create a stylish and elegant combination between dancewear and beautiful dresses by paying tribute to strong women.

This collection, which consisted of 43 mostly black and white looks, was highlighted with sparks of turquoise and caramel colors. In the meantime, a red shirt made of net and with a long silhouette attracted attention in a bold way. This eye-catching look with a handbag made of feathers was a turning point in the sea of ​​elegance of this collection.

Also, the presence of leather looks next to delicate and body-like fabrics such as net and silk evoked the intermingling of transparency, strength and femininity, which created a bold contrast.

Combining ballerina swans with '90s-inspired minimalism, each piece in the collection tells a story of movement and bold, modern femininity, highlighted by intricate detailing and high-quality stitching.